Down by the Waterhole: Botswana

Sitting just above South Africa, I found myself in without a doubt the friendliest country I've visited. Here I was greeted by the most welcoming curious faces and people open to sharing elaborate stories about their lives with complete strangers. The physical environment and animal life were as diverse as the rich history, culture and people.

Welcome to Botswana. You won't want to leave.

A young Bushman in Ghanzi shares some secrets of the semi-nomadic Saan lifestyle

Since gaining independence in 1966, Botswana has grown from one of the poorest underprivileged countries, to a largely successful developing democracy. Its expanding economy is mostly thanks to a thriving diamond industry. Botswana is also famous for its prime cattle, with beef exports stretching as far as Europe. Cows even outnumber people in Botswana twofold.

Driving through Botswana regularly involves suddenly slamming on the breaks to avoid yet another cow, goat or donkey meandering on the road. When you’re not steering around farm life, you'll get caught up in looking at the ever-changing terrain.

From dry white arid sands, vibrant red leaved trees and rich green ecosystems, Botswana will keep you guessing what to expect next.
A trip to Botswana would not be complete without taking in the 1000th UNESCO World Heritage Site- the Okavango Delta. Pristine and unhampered by excessive tourism, the delta really does feel untouched.
If you get the chance to visit, be sure to grab a ride on a mokoro (dug out canoe) and see the best of the delta first hand. Watch as elephants stroll past unfazed by your presence, and count the number of different bird species fly out of the reeds as you float by.

Mokoro drivers make this strenuous task look like light work

Easy days on the delta

Scenic flights run over the delta and are highly regarded as a not-to-be-missed experience amongst tour guides. Flying overhead you can began to comprehend the size and biodiversity of the delta and understand the way herds moves and ecosystems intersect.
Admittedly for me however this was a little hard to appreciate, but hey, not everyone has the stomach for scenic flights. Don't be put off, it is an amazing view. But do check the weather. If you don’t have a strong stomach and it’s a windy day, probably don't spend the $135AUD to stare into a sick-bag for 45 minutes.
The mokoro trip will be just fine. 

The scale of the Delta is easier to understand from air

My slightly disastrous scenic flight experience leads me to my absolute favourite story of my entire time in Africa.
Hands down the coolest campsite I’ve ever stayed, Elephant Sands is an absolutely a must-visit. After driving hundreds of kilometres through open semi-arid terrain, it was both bizarre, and absolutely incredible, to suddenly turn off to a lone watering hole surrounded by large tents, a bar and a small pool. Wild elephants wander through the campsite while you sit back and enjoy a cold beer with friends. I’m not sure whose idea it was to build a campsite here, but they need some kind of serious award.
It was a little slice of heaven in the middle of absolute nowhere.

Hanging out with my new friends at Elephant Sands

As if this wasn’t enough, my friends and I weren’t the only visitors that day. Down by the waterhole we met an elephant who regularly pays visit to the campsite owner. After getting a thorn stuck in it's foot, the elephant used to show the owner its foot as if asking for help. Once figuring out the problem, the owner called in a vet to remove the thorn. Now, every few days or so the elephant continues to return to visit and say thanks.

This is what I was saying about friendly locals and unique stories. Where else in the world would a someone befriend an elephant? It was a truly incredible place.

And I’m not done there. 

If there’s one moment I’ll never forget, it’s sitting on at an empty table underneath the leaking drip of the outside rain, watching countless numbers of elephants flock to the waterhole to drink and play. Just when I thought the moment couldn’t get any more perfect, the sky cleared up and a rainbow appeared right above families of elephants. I can’t imagine a moment more perfect. It just didn't seem real.

Life don't get much better than watching elephants play under a rainbow

It wouldn’t be a complete trip to Southern Africa without stopping over in Bots. Get ready for over-waving to countless smiling children, exploring peaceful and clean ecosystems, and constantly brushing sweat off your body in the searing sun. Botswana is certainly not for cold climate lovers, but it is a place that you will carry with you long after crossing the border.






I travelled to Botswana in November/December on an overland trip with Acacia, staying at Thebe River Camp, Elephant Sands Lodge, Delta Rain’s Sitatunga Camp, Elephant Camp and Ghanzi Trailblazers


 I've journeyed through 6 other countries in Southern Africa. You can follow my top posts on the right hand side or follow my new and upcoming Asia adventure at ditchedinasia or @k_ditch on twitter
  

Zimbabwe, Zambia and 'Vic Vegas'

I’ve pegged Zimbabwe and Zambia together- and no, not because both the Z-named countries are so similar they only need one post. This is because they share one of the most popular attractions in Africa and natural wonders of the world, Victoria Falls. Lying on the Zambezi River, the Falls is the natural border between the two countries.

It comes as no surprise, that even at the end of the dry season (November), Vic Falls is absolutely breathtaking (notably, only the Zimbabwe side flows at this time). The view is well worth the entry and sneaky extra visa costs.

Like most tourists, I zipped through Zim and Zam so quickly I didn’t see much more. This blog is not about Vic Fall’s enchanting beauty, rather what's beyond the lure of the Falls.

A small glimpse of the scale and power of the mighty Victoria Falls

 

A safari guide I met in Zimbabwe's Hwange National Park dismissively coined Vic Falls as ‘Vic Vegas’. 
His description wasn’t too far off. 

 

Certainly the most expensive place I went in Africa, Livingstone (Zambia's gateway to the Falls) is a tourist haven with highly priced adrenaline activities, western accommodation and more souvenirs than you could fit on your mantelpiece.   

I must admit, the activities were pretty cool. You can raft some of the world's best rapids, swim the Fall's peak in Devil's Pool, or see the full scope of the Zambezi from helicopter. The 111m bungee jump is actually stuck between the Zimbabwe/Zambia border- literally meaning you take the leap of faith in no-man's land.

Halfway through a 12 month trip and always on a student budget, I resisted the urge to jump off anything and rather save my cash for places with less ‘foreigner-tax’. 

The 100m bungee in Soweto, South Africa, was only around $35USD, compared to the $170USD price tag on Vic Vega's. 

No prizes for guessing which one I chose.

At the falls, I opted for a $25USD village cycle which ended up being one of the highlights of my entire Africa trip. Just minutes from the Falls lies a completely different world.  
The nearby villages had the colour and character I love so much about Africa. It's a strange combination of liveliness, happiness and extreme poverty. One minute, I'd be learning language from enthusiastic villages, the next, visiting families living in dirt houses falling apart at the seams. I cycled passed by vital fences and crops crushed from elephants, and piles of rubbish left on the streets with nowhere else to go.

 I was allowed to visit classrooms of kids, so happy to have a chance to learn and improve their lives. My white skin and Australian accent stood out so much I quickly became the tourist attraction for fascinated villages. The charismatic local markets boasted foods from staple grains, to worms, a charcoal-like edible stone and all colours of spices. Can’t pay for your food this week? Your regular market vendor is likely to accept payment when the funds are there.

Beans, worms, dried fish and grains on display at a market

The surrounding areas are split into 3 classes based on wealth and location. I met some women in the lowest class, who mine a quarry for stones they sell for just 25c a bag. Some days they sell a few bags, others they sell none. Regardless, every day is a working day. No sale means no money for their families, and with education costing $15-$60USD every three months, if the money's not made, kids end up doing the same kind of work at a young age. 
That’s how poverty cycles work. 
Not only to see it in person, but to be welcomed by people, despite the privileges I come from, is one of the most unbelievable experiences.

Labouring for small sales in the summer heat

I get tired of endless tourist centres, flashing cameras and relentless vendors persistently targeting me to buy items I have no interest in. I’ll never tire of learning about new places, a world away from what I’ve always known. 

It's not just the cultural experiences on offer in Zim and Zam. I'll take a closer look at the awesome time I had on safari in Zimbabwe in my next post. For now, the message I want to leave for those who have thought about seeing the great Vic Falls, is to really make the most of your time there.

I look back on my time in Zimbabwe and think of driving past tiny huts and scattered villages caught in mountain ranges. In Zambia, I remember continually having to get off my bike to hi-five kids that didn’t want me to leave without saying hi. 

A quick trip to Vic Falls doesn’t make full use of the $30USD Zimbabwe and $50USD Zambia visa. Zimbabwe and Zambia deserve more than a one-way ticket to the Africa's Vegas. I know there’s even more past the adventure activities, natural haven and tourist comforts. I can’t wait to go back and find more. 

Outside of Vic Falls I visited Zimbabwe's Hwange National Park and Antelope Park. In Livingstone, Zambia, I stayed at Victoria Falls Waterfront. I travelled with Acaica Africa on an overland truck.

Don't think this is all I have to say about Zimbabwe: Stay posted for my review of National Parks and Safari's from Zimbabwe, South Africa, Botswana and Namiba!

I started blogging uni assignments and photos @ ditchedinmelbourne back in Australia. This is my 6th post during 5-months in Southern Africa. Take a look at my other posts and subscribe to my updates on the right of my blog. You can also subsribe to my brand new blog ditchedinasia as my travels move to South East Asia, or follow updates on twitter @k_ditch