Finding the Best Safari in Southern Africa

Ah the safari. Probably the most thought of tourist adventure in Africa. It's not just driving around with giant camera lenses or rich westerners spending tens-of-thousands to liven up their trophy collection either. Safaris can range from the classic game drive through a national park, to cruising a river hippo-watching, or walking the trail of elephants. It’s about finding the most authentic African wildlife experience. 

As any guide will tell you, game spotting is literally a game. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose. I might see lions and leopards where you see nothing more than a few common impala. Good thing though is even if you lose, the game is half the fun. And if you sign up for as many safaris as I did, you’re bound to win at some point. I’ve done my best to summarize both the safaris and animal encounters I had in Southern Africa.

Grab your binoculars, these sites are not to be missed.

Kruger National Park- South Africa

Game drive

You can’t go past a Southern Africa experience without visiting the world renowned Kruger. Regarded as one of the best places for the big 5 (lion, buffalo, leopard, rhino and elephant)- Kruger certainly delivers. I saw the greatest animal variety here, and was lucky enough to see some more difficult to find animals like the leopard. It's also very clean, comfortable and easy to access. Kruger is absolutely fantastic, my only criticism is that everyone knows it. It was the most crowded and developed of all the parks I visited. The loaded lunch stops, crowds of tourists and safari traffic jams did detract from the authenticity of the experience. I wouldn't leave Kruger off any holiday itinerary though.

Animals: 10/10

Experience: 7/10

Overall: 8/10

White rhinos are easy to spot in this big 5 paradise

Hwange National Park- Zimbabwe

Game drive

Hwange is not only the biggest game reserve in Zimbabwe, it is also the former home to the sadly deceased Cecil the lion. Even though the Cecil glory days are over, Hwange holds some serious appeal. It was by far the most raw safari of the lot. We didn't see a lot of other tourists, the campsite felt like a part of the park and an awesome lookout offered a place to sit back for hours and watch various animals interact by a water hole. Other than a sleepy cheetah in the grass, I wasn’t overly lucky with animal sightings here. It was the charm of the safari experience that made it unforgettable. The passionate but chilled out guides gave us great info about the animals, plant life, traditional practices and hunting problems. They even came and picked us up after hours for an off-the-books night drive. They promoted the ‘forget your camera, enjoy the moment’ experience. I don’t have pictures to show how powerful Hwange is, but without the urgency to take a perfect picture, my time there was actually much more memorable.

Animals: 7/10

Experience: 9/10

Overall: 9/10

Antelope Park, Zimbabwe

Animal encounter

  

This private park is popular for voluntourism, lion walks and elephant rides. Not as authentic as seeing animals in a national park, it's more for tourists than real game enthusiasts. Here is a great place for a relaxing getaway and good photo ops. This type of animal tourism has it controversies. I for one don't believe elephants are for riding and I don't like places that offer it. To my understanding the animal treatment in this park is considered to be very ethical, but it's hard to tell from the surface and the folks at Hwange weren't overly impressed. It was however one of my favourite experiences horse riding alongside zebras, wildebeest and giraffes. Not to mention waking up to wild horses eating the food at our campsite! The animal encounters were also much cheaper than at the more popular Victoria Falls further up in Zimbabwe.

Animals: 4/10

Experience: 8/10

Overall: 6/10 

Watching wildlife is more fun on horseback

Chobe National Park, Botswana

River safari

If you like hippos, the Chobe River by boat is your calling. You can do classic game rivers in Chobe National Park, but my aim was to try every type of safari experience so I had to sneak in a river trip. This was great to see water life like crocodiles and hippos, as well as buffalo, elephants and bird life alongside the edges of the river. Although after about the 100th or so hippo it did stop being as exciting. It was a relaxing afternoon of sitting back and watching for game, followed by a stunning sunset. I liked doing this in addition to game drives for different scenery and animals. It is worth noting that it was almost unbearably hot under the searing sun. Definitely worth it to see all those slightly terrifying but equally as cute hippos. Just don't forget the sunscreen.

Animals: 6/10

Experience: 6/10

Overall: 6/10

Hippo lovers will be in heaven on the Chobe River

Okavango Delta, Botswana

Walking safari

By foot the sprawling ecosystems of the delta were an absolute adventure to explore. It’s a surreal experience peering over hills and through trees to see an elephant from eye level without the protection of a car. The delta is one of the most peaceful places I’d ever been and even though it’s not the best way to see lots of animals, it was a lot of fun. The guides were great at explaining the landscape and keeping us from getting too close to wildlife or lost. I took a flight over the delta to get a better feel for the ecosystems and animal life overall- this is a great option if (unlike me) you have a strong stomach for rocky flights. I preferred the walking.

Animals: 5/10

Experience: 8/10

Overall: 7/10

Watching wild elephants on foot

Tofo Beach, Mozambique

Ocean Safari

I've written about how beach life defines tourism in Mozambique, and this is no exception. Dive schools in Tofo take boats out to sea every day and comb sections of the ocean on the lookout for sea life. When they find something exciting, tourists jump in and snorkel to get the best view. Whale sharks and manta rays are the prime target of these trips. I didn't see either when I went, but was lucky enough to see humpback whales, including a mother feeding her young. Each trip takes a couple of hours but, like any safari, holds no guarantee of seeing life. Guides will remind you it's not a zoo and they can't plan what sea life you may or may not see. It's a bit of a gamble and two hours in ocean waves could be a bit much for some. It is also a lot of fun though. Water resistant sunscreen is essential.

Animals: 6/10

Experience: 7/10

Overall: 7/10

So much life to find in the beaches around Tofo

Etosha National Park, Namibia

Game drive

Etosha is the perfect combination of animal life, serenity, intriguing landscape and exciting adventure. I’m a huge lover of arid terrain so Namibia’s deserts really appealed to me. The wildlife was also diverse and easy to find. Not a lot of moments can top watching baby lion cubs playing at the foot of a tree. The park was huge, unique and endlessly open of opportunities. I’d go back and explore this place for weeks. Of course I’m going to recommend that if you have the chance, go to every safari on the continent twice over. However, for an overall experience I can’t speak more highly of Etosha. Vast and open, popular and comfortable, while still feeling secluded and authentic. Do not miss.

Animals: 9/10

Experience: 10/10

Overall: 10/10

Wilderbeest in action running through Etosha

Lion Park, South Africa

Animal encounter 

Conveniently located in Johannesburg, the Lion Park is a fun tourist attraction, but far from any kind of national park or sanctuary. Here you can get close up views of animals including lions, cheetahs, hyenas and zebras. The park offers game drives, feeding tours and animal interaction and play at very affordable rates. While the animals are not living in the wild, last year the death of a tourist who left her car window down while driving in the park is a tragic reminder to always exercise caution around lions. The Lion Park, and other similar parks in Africa, receive a lot of criticism from animal activists. Basically, to meet the demands of lion tourism, many adult lions are sifted into the canned hunting industry after they have reached their cuteness expiry date. You can read or watch the work of Blood Lions in uncovering the nasty secrets of lion tourism, but it will put you off places like this. I don't know of this parks involment in feeding canned hunting, and had no luck getting information from them. I did have a great day in the park and got some cool pictures, but I rate this place the lowest because of the potentially sketchy animal practices.

Animals: 5/10

Experience: 6/10

Overall: 4/10

Cubs are tame enough to play with in the Lion Park

Otjitotongwe Cheetah Guest Farm, Namibia

Animal encounter

Unless you’re driving really early or late at night on a safari, you’re unlikely to see more than a rare sleepy cheetah in the shade. There were no shortage of cool cheetah sightings in Otjitotongwe Farm, but it’s not exactly seeing animals in their natural element. The farm offers daily interactions with three cheetahs tamed by the friendly family owners. Like the Lion Park, Otjitotongwe is a prime place for getting close to big cats, as well as getting that post-card worthy animal photo. It was less commercial than the lion park and the family are very passionate about caring for the cats, but it still receives some criticism for its practices. After playing with cheetahs, visitors are driven through the wild section of the park and watch the un-tame cheetahs leap for fresh meat thrown from the car. It’s exciting to watch them so close and this is a prime time for perfect photos. The farm also offers a big outdoor swimming pool which you will be very grateful for after enduring a long day in Namibia’s relentless heat. I wouldn’t miss this place if you’re a big-cat enthusiast like I am, but I certainly wouldn’t recommend it more than going to an actual national park and searching for a wild cheetahs.

Animals: 6/10

Experience: 7/10

Overall: 7/10

 

Up close and personal with Cheetahs

Based in Johannesburg, I spent 5 months living, studying and exploring Southern Africa. Most of my animal experiences were through overlanding with acacia, with some solo and group travel on the side.

I've written a lot about my favourite places in Africa. You can check out my other posts on your right or follow my past and upcoming Asian adventure on my other blog ditchedinasia.

Down by the Waterhole: Botswana

Sitting just above South Africa, I found myself in without a doubt the friendliest country I've visited. Here I was greeted by the most welcoming curious faces and people open to sharing elaborate stories about their lives with complete strangers. The physical environment and animal life were as diverse as the rich history, culture and people.

Welcome to Botswana. You won't want to leave.

A young Bushman in Ghanzi shares some secrets of the semi-nomadic Saan lifestyle

Since gaining independence in 1966, Botswana has grown from one of the poorest underprivileged countries, to a largely successful developing democracy. Its expanding economy is mostly thanks to a thriving diamond industry. Botswana is also famous for its prime cattle, with beef exports stretching as far as Europe. Cows even outnumber people in Botswana twofold.

Driving through Botswana regularly involves suddenly slamming on the breaks to avoid yet another cow, goat or donkey meandering on the road. When you’re not steering around farm life, you'll get caught up in looking at the ever-changing terrain.

From dry white arid sands, vibrant red leaved trees and rich green ecosystems, Botswana will keep you guessing what to expect next.
A trip to Botswana would not be complete without taking in the 1000th UNESCO World Heritage Site- the Okavango Delta. Pristine and unhampered by excessive tourism, the delta really does feel untouched.
If you get the chance to visit, be sure to grab a ride on a mokoro (dug out canoe) and see the best of the delta first hand. Watch as elephants stroll past unfazed by your presence, and count the number of different bird species fly out of the reeds as you float by.

Mokoro drivers make this strenuous task look like light work

Easy days on the delta

Scenic flights run over the delta and are highly regarded as a not-to-be-missed experience amongst tour guides. Flying overhead you can began to comprehend the size and biodiversity of the delta and understand the way herds moves and ecosystems intersect.
Admittedly for me however this was a little hard to appreciate, but hey, not everyone has the stomach for scenic flights. Don't be put off, it is an amazing view. But do check the weather. If you don’t have a strong stomach and it’s a windy day, probably don't spend the $135AUD to stare into a sick-bag for 45 minutes.
The mokoro trip will be just fine. 

The scale of the Delta is easier to understand from air

My slightly disastrous scenic flight experience leads me to my absolute favourite story of my entire time in Africa.
Hands down the coolest campsite I’ve ever stayed, Elephant Sands is an absolutely a must-visit. After driving hundreds of kilometres through open semi-arid terrain, it was both bizarre, and absolutely incredible, to suddenly turn off to a lone watering hole surrounded by large tents, a bar and a small pool. Wild elephants wander through the campsite while you sit back and enjoy a cold beer with friends. I’m not sure whose idea it was to build a campsite here, but they need some kind of serious award.
It was a little slice of heaven in the middle of absolute nowhere.

Hanging out with my new friends at Elephant Sands

As if this wasn’t enough, my friends and I weren’t the only visitors that day. Down by the waterhole we met an elephant who regularly pays visit to the campsite owner. After getting a thorn stuck in it's foot, the elephant used to show the owner its foot as if asking for help. Once figuring out the problem, the owner called in a vet to remove the thorn. Now, every few days or so the elephant continues to return to visit and say thanks.

This is what I was saying about friendly locals and unique stories. Where else in the world would a someone befriend an elephant? It was a truly incredible place.

And I’m not done there. 

If there’s one moment I’ll never forget, it’s sitting on at an empty table underneath the leaking drip of the outside rain, watching countless numbers of elephants flock to the waterhole to drink and play. Just when I thought the moment couldn’t get any more perfect, the sky cleared up and a rainbow appeared right above families of elephants. I can’t imagine a moment more perfect. It just didn't seem real.

Life don't get much better than watching elephants play under a rainbow

It wouldn’t be a complete trip to Southern Africa without stopping over in Bots. Get ready for over-waving to countless smiling children, exploring peaceful and clean ecosystems, and constantly brushing sweat off your body in the searing sun. Botswana is certainly not for cold climate lovers, but it is a place that you will carry with you long after crossing the border.






I travelled to Botswana in November/December on an overland trip with Acacia, staying at Thebe River Camp, Elephant Sands Lodge, Delta Rain’s Sitatunga Camp, Elephant Camp and Ghanzi Trailblazers


 I've journeyed through 6 other countries in Southern Africa. You can follow my top posts on the right hand side or follow my new and upcoming Asia adventure at ditchedinasia or @k_ditch on twitter