Sunday, 31 January 2016

Zimbabwe, Zambia and 'Vic Vegas'


I’ve pegged Zimbabwe and Zambia together- and no, not because both the Z-named countries are so similar they only need one post. This is because they share one of the most popular attractions in Africa and natural wonders of the world, Victoria Falls. Lying on the Zambezi River, the Falls is the natural border between the two countries.

It comes as no surprise, that even at the end of the dry season (November), Vic Falls is absolutely breathtaking (notably, only the Zimbabwe side flows at this time). The view is well worth the entry and sneaky extra visa costs.
Like most tourists, I zipped through Zim and Zam so quickly I didn’t see much more. This blog is not about Vic Fall’s enchanting beauty, rather what's beyond the lure of the Falls.

A small glimpse of the scale and power of the mighty Victoria Falls
 
A safari guide I met in Zimbabwe's Hwange National Park dismissively coined Vic Falls as ‘Vic Vegas’. 
His description wasn’t too far off. 
 
Certainly the most expensive place I went in Africa, Livingstone (Zambia's gateway to the Falls) is a tourist haven with highly priced adrenaline activities, western accommodation and more souvenirs than you could fit on your mantelpiece.   
I must admit, the activities were pretty cool. You can raft some of the world's best rapids, swim the Fall's peak in Devil's Pool, or see the full scope of the Zambezi from helicopter. The 111m bungee jump is actually stuck between the Zimbabwe/Zambia border- literally meaning you take the leap of faith in no-man's land.

Halfway through a 12 month trip and always on a student budget, I resisted the urge to jump off anything and rather save my cash for places with less ‘foreigner-tax’. 
The 100m bungee in Soweto, South Africa, was only around $35USD, compared to the $170USD price tag on Vic Vega's. 
No prizes for guessing which one I chose.

At the falls, I opted for a $25USD village cycle which ended up being one of the highlights of my entire Africa trip. Just minutes from the Falls lies a completely different world.  
The nearby villages had the colour and character I love so much about Africa. It's a strange combination of liveliness, happiness and extreme poverty. One minute, I'd be learning language from enthusiastic villages, the next, visiting families living in dirt houses falling apart at the seams. I cycled passed by vital fences and crops crushed from elephants, and piles of rubbish left on the streets with nowhere else to go.
 I was allowed to visit classrooms of kids, so happy to have a chance to learn and improve their lives. My white skin and Australian accent stood out so much I quickly became the tourist attraction for fascinated villages. The charismatic local markets boasted foods from staple grains, to worms, a charcoal-like edible stone and all colours of spices. Can’t pay for your food this week? Your regular market vendor is likely to accept payment when the funds are there.


Beans, worms, dried fish and grains on display at a market

The surrounding areas are split into 3 classes based on wealth and location. I met some women in the lowest class, who mine a quarry for stones they sell for just 25c a bag. Some days they sell a few bags, others they sell none. Regardless, every day is a working day. No sale means no money for their families, and with education costing $15-$60USD every three months, if the money's not made, kids end up doing the same kind of work at a young age. 
That’s how poverty cycles work. 
Not only to see it in person, but to be welcomed by people, despite the privileges I come from, is one of the most unbelievable experiences.


Labouring for small sales in the summer heat


I get tired of endless tourist centres, flashing cameras and relentless vendors persistently targeting me to buy items I have no interest in. I’ll never tire of learning about new places, a world away from what I’ve always known. 
It's not just the cultural experiences on offer in Zim and Zam. I'll take a closer look at the awesome time I had on safari in Zimbabwe in my next post. For now, the message I want to leave for those who have thought about seeing the great Vic Falls, is to really make the most of your time there.
I look back on my time in Zimbabwe and think of driving past tiny huts and scattered villages caught in mountain ranges. In Zambia, I remember continually having to get off my bike to hi-five kids that didn’t want me to leave without saying hi. 
A quick trip to Vic Falls doesn’t make full use of the $30USD Zimbabwe and $50USD Zambia visa. Zimbabwe and Zambia deserve more than a one-way ticket to the Africa's Vegas. I know there’s even more past the adventure activities, natural haven and tourist comforts. I can’t wait to go back and find more. 









Outside of Vic Falls I visited Zimbabwe's Hwange National Park and Antelope Park. In Livingstone, Zambia, I stayed at Victoria Falls Waterfront. I travelled with Acaica Africa on an overland truck.
Don't think this is all I have to say about Zimbabwe: Stay posted for my review of National Parks and Safari's from Zimbabwe, South Africa, Botswana and Namiba!


I started blogging uni assignments and photos @ ditchedinmelbourne back in Australia. This is my 6th post during 5-months in Southern Africa. Take a look at my other posts and subscribe to my updates on the right of my blog. You can also subsribe to my brand new blog ditchedinasia as my travels move to South East Asia, or follow updates on twitter @k_ditch




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