Down by the Waterhole: Botswana

Sitting just above South Africa, I found myself in without a doubt the friendliest country I've visited. Here I was greeted by the most welcoming curious faces and people open to sharing elaborate stories about their lives with complete strangers. The physical environment and animal life were as diverse as the rich history, culture and people.

Welcome to Botswana. You won't want to leave.

A young Bushman in Ghanzi shares some secrets of the semi-nomadic Saan lifestyle

Since gaining independence in 1966, Botswana has grown from one of the poorest underprivileged countries, to a largely successful developing democracy. Its expanding economy is mostly thanks to a thriving diamond industry. Botswana is also famous for its prime cattle, with beef exports stretching as far as Europe. Cows even outnumber people in Botswana twofold.

Driving through Botswana regularly involves suddenly slamming on the breaks to avoid yet another cow, goat or donkey meandering on the road. When you’re not steering around farm life, you'll get caught up in looking at the ever-changing terrain.

From dry white arid sands, vibrant red leaved trees and rich green ecosystems, Botswana will keep you guessing what to expect next.
A trip to Botswana would not be complete without taking in the 1000th UNESCO World Heritage Site- the Okavango Delta. Pristine and unhampered by excessive tourism, the delta really does feel untouched.
If you get the chance to visit, be sure to grab a ride on a mokoro (dug out canoe) and see the best of the delta first hand. Watch as elephants stroll past unfazed by your presence, and count the number of different bird species fly out of the reeds as you float by.

Mokoro drivers make this strenuous task look like light work

Easy days on the delta

Scenic flights run over the delta and are highly regarded as a not-to-be-missed experience amongst tour guides. Flying overhead you can began to comprehend the size and biodiversity of the delta and understand the way herds moves and ecosystems intersect.
Admittedly for me however this was a little hard to appreciate, but hey, not everyone has the stomach for scenic flights. Don't be put off, it is an amazing view. But do check the weather. If you don’t have a strong stomach and it’s a windy day, probably don't spend the $135AUD to stare into a sick-bag for 45 minutes.
The mokoro trip will be just fine. 

The scale of the Delta is easier to understand from air

My slightly disastrous scenic flight experience leads me to my absolute favourite story of my entire time in Africa.
Hands down the coolest campsite I’ve ever stayed, Elephant Sands is an absolutely a must-visit. After driving hundreds of kilometres through open semi-arid terrain, it was both bizarre, and absolutely incredible, to suddenly turn off to a lone watering hole surrounded by large tents, a bar and a small pool. Wild elephants wander through the campsite while you sit back and enjoy a cold beer with friends. I’m not sure whose idea it was to build a campsite here, but they need some kind of serious award.
It was a little slice of heaven in the middle of absolute nowhere.

Hanging out with my new friends at Elephant Sands

As if this wasn’t enough, my friends and I weren’t the only visitors that day. Down by the waterhole we met an elephant who regularly pays visit to the campsite owner. After getting a thorn stuck in it's foot, the elephant used to show the owner its foot as if asking for help. Once figuring out the problem, the owner called in a vet to remove the thorn. Now, every few days or so the elephant continues to return to visit and say thanks.

This is what I was saying about friendly locals and unique stories. Where else in the world would a someone befriend an elephant? It was a truly incredible place.

And I’m not done there. 

If there’s one moment I’ll never forget, it’s sitting on at an empty table underneath the leaking drip of the outside rain, watching countless numbers of elephants flock to the waterhole to drink and play. Just when I thought the moment couldn’t get any more perfect, the sky cleared up and a rainbow appeared right above families of elephants. I can’t imagine a moment more perfect. It just didn't seem real.

Life don't get much better than watching elephants play under a rainbow

It wouldn’t be a complete trip to Southern Africa without stopping over in Bots. Get ready for over-waving to countless smiling children, exploring peaceful and clean ecosystems, and constantly brushing sweat off your body in the searing sun. Botswana is certainly not for cold climate lovers, but it is a place that you will carry with you long after crossing the border.






I travelled to Botswana in November/December on an overland trip with Acacia, staying at Thebe River Camp, Elephant Sands Lodge, Delta Rain’s Sitatunga Camp, Elephant Camp and Ghanzi Trailblazers


 I've journeyed through 6 other countries in Southern Africa. You can follow my top posts on the right hand side or follow my new and upcoming Asia adventure at ditchedinasia or @k_ditch on twitter