Dancing in the Desert Rain: Namibia

From giant sand dunes, to vibrant culture and the most daring extreme sports- there isn't a whole lot Namibia doesn't offer for visitors. 

Picture looking out over the tallest rock in the Kalahari, just guessing how far the desert might stretch. Think of climbing rolling barren hills with sand so red, you'll have to wear sunglasses just to keep looking at the amazing views. Discover all the animals of Namibia, from the Big 5 favourites, to the small creatures and critters of the desert.

If this isn't the most photogenic country in the world, I don't know what is. Namibia has my favourite sites in Southern Africa. I'm honestly not sure how to cram them all in one post while still doing them justice.

On top of the world exploring in the Namib desert

Let me start with a place called Sossusvlei. Home to Dune 45 (pictured above), Sossusvlei is the place for easy access to epic sand dune views. Hiding behind one collection of dunes lies Deadvlei, a graveyard forest of 900 year old petrified trees. This desolate selection of twisted dead trees caught on a crystal white salt and clay pan is absolutely breathtaking. Despite being the most popular attraction in Namibia, it was so silent and peaceful. I wandered in disbelief around the artistic trees, found one I particularly liked the shape of and I honestly could have just sat there for days. This could quiet possibly be my favourite place in the world.

Peaceful and beautiful, Sossusvlei and Deadvlei should be on every bucket-list 

Walking up huge dunes is both one of the coolest things I've done, and completely exhausting. For every step you take, expect to slide back half of it. Absolutely worth it for the view at the top of Dune 45, or to slide your way down on a sandboard in Swakopmund.

As it turns out, sandboarding isn't one of my talents. Days after I was still finding sand buried in my hair, noes and ears after several not-so-impressive face plants.

While it was exhausting, there was something so cool about the lack of infrastructure. It was just you, the dune and your board. No lifts. No facilities. No high-rise hotels.

Crusing down a dune in Swakopmund

It's not just sandboarding. Namibia is largely free from excessive commercialisation and crowds that come with mass tourism. All the activities in the adventure-capital Swakopmund were easy-going, affordable and exactly what I was looking for to feed my inner adrenaline junkie. With massive dunes, salt pans, qwerky German architecture and beach views, Swakopmund is the perfect place to skydive. At only $210AUD, it's one of the cheapest places in the world to jump, with an impeccable safety record.

Taking in the views of the Namib Desert 10,000 feet above ground

If adrenaline isn't really your thing, don't stress. Namibia is jammed packed with interesting history, culture and people. None more intriguing to me than the Herero people. The 250,000 Herero people in Namibia traditionally lead a semi-nomadic farming based lifestyle. The captivating, elaborate and colourful dresses worn by Herero women are what draws the attention of tourists. These women can be seen across the country from townships to roadside market stalls miles away from anything else. 

The diverse culture in Namibia from the traditional to the modern is fascinating to observe, and I was overwhelmed with how friendly people were. I even tried (unsuccessfully) to speak the well-known click language. At least I provided some kind of entertainment to the welcoming locals.

Herero women wear these stunning dresses all over the country

The most memorable aspect of Namibia is without a doubt its natural rock formations. Travelling in Namibia simply must be done by road to see the landscape. Most of the roads in Namibia are dirt/gravel and there are a lot of hills. The road-trip itself is an adventurous roller-coaster with amazing scenery. Driving for hours between campsites you see some of the most stunning huge rocks and canyons, as though they were just an everyday site.

The camp site at Spitzkoppe was particularly notable for its unbelievable landscape. Very raw and untouched, the mountainous rocks and open plains show the best of Namibian landscape and the clearest view of the brightest stars at night.

The giant rocks of Spitzkoppe offer perfect views in the afternoon sun

I've written about 'Finding the Best Safari in Southern Africa', and Namibia's Etosha National Park was an easy winner. It wasn't just the huge variety of animals herds running through the dry landscape, or even watching lion cubs play at the foot of a tree. There was just something special about the park. There's even a lit-up waterhole right at the campsite you can just sit at for hours at night and watch as anything from lions to rhinos wander through.

Contrary to the very dry climate, when I was there the park was hit by heavy rains. Rain can be something that hampers a holiday, but not in this case. The unlikely scenario of rain in the desert came as a welcome relief from the weeks of scorching temperatures. The group I was with took it as a chance to grab a few drinks, head outside in our raincoats, put on some tunes and dance the night away. I cant think of a better way to enjoy the desert rain, or even to sum up my time in Namibia.

My favourite acacia tree in Etosha National Park

I never like to say I have a favourite country, but if I had to pick the best place to travel in Southern Africa, it would be Namibia. It's got affordable adventure activities, countless friendly faces, thriving animal life, minimal annoying tourists and sites that really are something else.

The only bad thing I could say is that I didn't spend nearly long enough there.

Watching over the second largest canyon in the world- Fish River Canyon

Tame and wild cheetahs are ready to meet at Otjitotongwe Cheetah Farm

I spent 11 days overlanding in Namibia, travelling with Acacia in November/December 2015. 

I stayed at Urban Camp in Namibia's capital Windhoek, Etosha National Park Camp, Otjitotongwe Cheetah Guest Farm, Spitzkoppe Bush Camp, Amanpuri Lodge in Swakopmund and Canyon Road House.

For 5 months I studied, lived and travelled in Southern Africa, writing about adventures from swimming with whales in Mozambique to hiking in the rain at Drakensberg.

Based in Melbourne, I try to spend most of my time abroad. Follow my 2016 blog ditchedinasia for my latest trip. 

Finding the Best Safari in Southern Africa

Ah the safari. Probably the most thought of tourist adventure in Africa. It's not just driving around with giant camera lenses or rich westerners spending tens-of-thousands to liven up their trophy collection either. Safaris can range from the classic game drive through a national park, to cruising a river hippo-watching, or walking the trail of elephants. It’s about finding the most authentic African wildlife experience. 

As any guide will tell you, game spotting is literally a game. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose. I might see lions and leopards where you see nothing more than a few common impala. Good thing though is even if you lose, the game is half the fun. And if you sign up for as many safaris as I did, you’re bound to win at some point. I’ve done my best to summarize both the safaris and animal encounters I had in Southern Africa.

Grab your binoculars, these sites are not to be missed.

Kruger National Park- South Africa

Game drive

You can’t go past a Southern Africa experience without visiting the world renowned Kruger. Regarded as one of the best places for the big 5 (lion, buffalo, leopard, rhino and elephant)- Kruger certainly delivers. I saw the greatest animal variety here, and was lucky enough to see some more difficult to find animals like the leopard. It's also very clean, comfortable and easy to access. Kruger is absolutely fantastic, my only criticism is that everyone knows it. It was the most crowded and developed of all the parks I visited. The loaded lunch stops, crowds of tourists and safari traffic jams did detract from the authenticity of the experience. I wouldn't leave Kruger off any holiday itinerary though.

Animals: 10/10

Experience: 7/10

Overall: 8/10

White rhinos are easy to spot in this big 5 paradise

Hwange National Park- Zimbabwe

Game drive

Hwange is not only the biggest game reserve in Zimbabwe, it is also the former home to the sadly deceased Cecil the lion. Even though the Cecil glory days are over, Hwange holds some serious appeal. It was by far the most raw safari of the lot. We didn't see a lot of other tourists, the campsite felt like a part of the park and an awesome lookout offered a place to sit back for hours and watch various animals interact by a water hole. Other than a sleepy cheetah in the grass, I wasn’t overly lucky with animal sightings here. It was the charm of the safari experience that made it unforgettable. The passionate but chilled out guides gave us great info about the animals, plant life, traditional practices and hunting problems. They even came and picked us up after hours for an off-the-books night drive. They promoted the ‘forget your camera, enjoy the moment’ experience. I don’t have pictures to show how powerful Hwange is, but without the urgency to take a perfect picture, my time there was actually much more memorable.

Animals: 7/10

Experience: 9/10

Overall: 9/10

Antelope Park, Zimbabwe

Animal encounter

  

This private park is popular for voluntourism, lion walks and elephant rides. Not as authentic as seeing animals in a national park, it's more for tourists than real game enthusiasts. Here is a great place for a relaxing getaway and good photo ops. This type of animal tourism has it controversies. I for one don't believe elephants are for riding and I don't like places that offer it. To my understanding the animal treatment in this park is considered to be very ethical, but it's hard to tell from the surface and the folks at Hwange weren't overly impressed. It was however one of my favourite experiences horse riding alongside zebras, wildebeest and giraffes. Not to mention waking up to wild horses eating the food at our campsite! The animal encounters were also much cheaper than at the more popular Victoria Falls further up in Zimbabwe.

Animals: 4/10

Experience: 8/10

Overall: 6/10 

Watching wildlife is more fun on horseback

Chobe National Park, Botswana

River safari

If you like hippos, the Chobe River by boat is your calling. You can do classic game rivers in Chobe National Park, but my aim was to try every type of safari experience so I had to sneak in a river trip. This was great to see water life like crocodiles and hippos, as well as buffalo, elephants and bird life alongside the edges of the river. Although after about the 100th or so hippo it did stop being as exciting. It was a relaxing afternoon of sitting back and watching for game, followed by a stunning sunset. I liked doing this in addition to game drives for different scenery and animals. It is worth noting that it was almost unbearably hot under the searing sun. Definitely worth it to see all those slightly terrifying but equally as cute hippos. Just don't forget the sunscreen.

Animals: 6/10

Experience: 6/10

Overall: 6/10

Hippo lovers will be in heaven on the Chobe River

Okavango Delta, Botswana

Walking safari

By foot the sprawling ecosystems of the delta were an absolute adventure to explore. It’s a surreal experience peering over hills and through trees to see an elephant from eye level without the protection of a car. The delta is one of the most peaceful places I’d ever been and even though it’s not the best way to see lots of animals, it was a lot of fun. The guides were great at explaining the landscape and keeping us from getting too close to wildlife or lost. I took a flight over the delta to get a better feel for the ecosystems and animal life overall- this is a great option if (unlike me) you have a strong stomach for rocky flights. I preferred the walking.

Animals: 5/10

Experience: 8/10

Overall: 7/10

Watching wild elephants on foot

Tofo Beach, Mozambique

Ocean Safari

I've written about how beach life defines tourism in Mozambique, and this is no exception. Dive schools in Tofo take boats out to sea every day and comb sections of the ocean on the lookout for sea life. When they find something exciting, tourists jump in and snorkel to get the best view. Whale sharks and manta rays are the prime target of these trips. I didn't see either when I went, but was lucky enough to see humpback whales, including a mother feeding her young. Each trip takes a couple of hours but, like any safari, holds no guarantee of seeing life. Guides will remind you it's not a zoo and they can't plan what sea life you may or may not see. It's a bit of a gamble and two hours in ocean waves could be a bit much for some. It is also a lot of fun though. Water resistant sunscreen is essential.

Animals: 6/10

Experience: 7/10

Overall: 7/10

So much life to find in the beaches around Tofo

Etosha National Park, Namibia

Game drive

Etosha is the perfect combination of animal life, serenity, intriguing landscape and exciting adventure. I’m a huge lover of arid terrain so Namibia’s deserts really appealed to me. The wildlife was also diverse and easy to find. Not a lot of moments can top watching baby lion cubs playing at the foot of a tree. The park was huge, unique and endlessly open of opportunities. I’d go back and explore this place for weeks. Of course I’m going to recommend that if you have the chance, go to every safari on the continent twice over. However, for an overall experience I can’t speak more highly of Etosha. Vast and open, popular and comfortable, while still feeling secluded and authentic. Do not miss.

Animals: 9/10

Experience: 10/10

Overall: 10/10

Wilderbeest in action running through Etosha

Lion Park, South Africa

Animal encounter 

Conveniently located in Johannesburg, the Lion Park is a fun tourist attraction, but far from any kind of national park or sanctuary. Here you can get close up views of animals including lions, cheetahs, hyenas and zebras. The park offers game drives, feeding tours and animal interaction and play at very affordable rates. While the animals are not living in the wild, last year the death of a tourist who left her car window down while driving in the park is a tragic reminder to always exercise caution around lions. The Lion Park, and other similar parks in Africa, receive a lot of criticism from animal activists. Basically, to meet the demands of lion tourism, many adult lions are sifted into the canned hunting industry after they have reached their cuteness expiry date. You can read or watch the work of Blood Lions in uncovering the nasty secrets of lion tourism, but it will put you off places like this. I don't know of this parks involment in feeding canned hunting, and had no luck getting information from them. I did have a great day in the park and got some cool pictures, but I rate this place the lowest because of the potentially sketchy animal practices.

Animals: 5/10

Experience: 6/10

Overall: 4/10

Cubs are tame enough to play with in the Lion Park

Otjitotongwe Cheetah Guest Farm, Namibia

Animal encounter

Unless you’re driving really early or late at night on a safari, you’re unlikely to see more than a rare sleepy cheetah in the shade. There were no shortage of cool cheetah sightings in Otjitotongwe Farm, but it’s not exactly seeing animals in their natural element. The farm offers daily interactions with three cheetahs tamed by the friendly family owners. Like the Lion Park, Otjitotongwe is a prime place for getting close to big cats, as well as getting that post-card worthy animal photo. It was less commercial than the lion park and the family are very passionate about caring for the cats, but it still receives some criticism for its practices. After playing with cheetahs, visitors are driven through the wild section of the park and watch the un-tame cheetahs leap for fresh meat thrown from the car. It’s exciting to watch them so close and this is a prime time for perfect photos. The farm also offers a big outdoor swimming pool which you will be very grateful for after enduring a long day in Namibia’s relentless heat. I wouldn’t miss this place if you’re a big-cat enthusiast like I am, but I certainly wouldn’t recommend it more than going to an actual national park and searching for a wild cheetahs.

Animals: 6/10

Experience: 7/10

Overall: 7/10

 

Up close and personal with Cheetahs

Based in Johannesburg, I spent 5 months living, studying and exploring Southern Africa. Most of my animal experiences were through overlanding with acacia, with some solo and group travel on the side.

I've written a lot about my favourite places in Africa. You can check out my other posts on your right or follow my past and upcoming Asian adventure on my other blog ditchedinasia.