Finding the Best Safari in Southern Africa

Ah the safari. Probably the most thought of tourist adventure in Africa. It's not just driving around with giant camera lenses or rich westerners spending tens-of-thousands to liven up their trophy collection either. Safaris can range from the classic game drive through a national park, to cruising a river hippo-watching, or walking the trail of elephants. It’s about finding the most authentic African wildlife experience. 

As any guide will tell you, game spotting is literally a game. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose. I might see lions and leopards where you see nothing more than a few common impala. Good thing though is even if you lose, the game is half the fun. And if you sign up for as many safaris as I did, you’re bound to win at some point. I’ve done my best to summarize both the safaris and animal encounters I had in Southern Africa.

Grab your binoculars, these sites are not to be missed.

Kruger National Park- South Africa

Game drive

You can’t go past a Southern Africa experience without visiting the world renowned Kruger. Regarded as one of the best places for the big 5 (lion, buffalo, leopard, rhino and elephant)- Kruger certainly delivers. I saw the greatest animal variety here, and was lucky enough to see some more difficult to find animals like the leopard. It's also very clean, comfortable and easy to access. Kruger is absolutely fantastic, my only criticism is that everyone knows it. It was the most crowded and developed of all the parks I visited. The loaded lunch stops, crowds of tourists and safari traffic jams did detract from the authenticity of the experience. I wouldn't leave Kruger off any holiday itinerary though.

Animals: 10/10

Experience: 7/10

Overall: 8/10

White rhinos are easy to spot in this big 5 paradise

Hwange National Park- Zimbabwe

Game drive

Hwange is not only the biggest game reserve in Zimbabwe, it is also the former home to the sadly deceased Cecil the lion. Even though the Cecil glory days are over, Hwange holds some serious appeal. It was by far the most raw safari of the lot. We didn't see a lot of other tourists, the campsite felt like a part of the park and an awesome lookout offered a place to sit back for hours and watch various animals interact by a water hole. Other than a sleepy cheetah in the grass, I wasn’t overly lucky with animal sightings here. It was the charm of the safari experience that made it unforgettable. The passionate but chilled out guides gave us great info about the animals, plant life, traditional practices and hunting problems. They even came and picked us up after hours for an off-the-books night drive. They promoted the ‘forget your camera, enjoy the moment’ experience. I don’t have pictures to show how powerful Hwange is, but without the urgency to take a perfect picture, my time there was actually much more memorable.

Animals: 7/10

Experience: 9/10

Overall: 9/10

Antelope Park, Zimbabwe

Animal encounter

  

This private park is popular for voluntourism, lion walks and elephant rides. Not as authentic as seeing animals in a national park, it's more for tourists than real game enthusiasts. Here is a great place for a relaxing getaway and good photo ops. This type of animal tourism has it controversies. I for one don't believe elephants are for riding and I don't like places that offer it. To my understanding the animal treatment in this park is considered to be very ethical, but it's hard to tell from the surface and the folks at Hwange weren't overly impressed. It was however one of my favourite experiences horse riding alongside zebras, wildebeest and giraffes. Not to mention waking up to wild horses eating the food at our campsite! The animal encounters were also much cheaper than at the more popular Victoria Falls further up in Zimbabwe.

Animals: 4/10

Experience: 8/10

Overall: 6/10 

Watching wildlife is more fun on horseback

Chobe National Park, Botswana

River safari

If you like hippos, the Chobe River by boat is your calling. You can do classic game rivers in Chobe National Park, but my aim was to try every type of safari experience so I had to sneak in a river trip. This was great to see water life like crocodiles and hippos, as well as buffalo, elephants and bird life alongside the edges of the river. Although after about the 100th or so hippo it did stop being as exciting. It was a relaxing afternoon of sitting back and watching for game, followed by a stunning sunset. I liked doing this in addition to game drives for different scenery and animals. It is worth noting that it was almost unbearably hot under the searing sun. Definitely worth it to see all those slightly terrifying but equally as cute hippos. Just don't forget the sunscreen.

Animals: 6/10

Experience: 6/10

Overall: 6/10

Hippo lovers will be in heaven on the Chobe River

Okavango Delta, Botswana

Walking safari

By foot the sprawling ecosystems of the delta were an absolute adventure to explore. It’s a surreal experience peering over hills and through trees to see an elephant from eye level without the protection of a car. The delta is one of the most peaceful places I’d ever been and even though it’s not the best way to see lots of animals, it was a lot of fun. The guides were great at explaining the landscape and keeping us from getting too close to wildlife or lost. I took a flight over the delta to get a better feel for the ecosystems and animal life overall- this is a great option if (unlike me) you have a strong stomach for rocky flights. I preferred the walking.

Animals: 5/10

Experience: 8/10

Overall: 7/10

Watching wild elephants on foot

Tofo Beach, Mozambique

Ocean Safari

I've written about how beach life defines tourism in Mozambique, and this is no exception. Dive schools in Tofo take boats out to sea every day and comb sections of the ocean on the lookout for sea life. When they find something exciting, tourists jump in and snorkel to get the best view. Whale sharks and manta rays are the prime target of these trips. I didn't see either when I went, but was lucky enough to see humpback whales, including a mother feeding her young. Each trip takes a couple of hours but, like any safari, holds no guarantee of seeing life. Guides will remind you it's not a zoo and they can't plan what sea life you may or may not see. It's a bit of a gamble and two hours in ocean waves could be a bit much for some. It is also a lot of fun though. Water resistant sunscreen is essential.

Animals: 6/10

Experience: 7/10

Overall: 7/10

So much life to find in the beaches around Tofo

Etosha National Park, Namibia

Game drive

Etosha is the perfect combination of animal life, serenity, intriguing landscape and exciting adventure. I’m a huge lover of arid terrain so Namibia’s deserts really appealed to me. The wildlife was also diverse and easy to find. Not a lot of moments can top watching baby lion cubs playing at the foot of a tree. The park was huge, unique and endlessly open of opportunities. I’d go back and explore this place for weeks. Of course I’m going to recommend that if you have the chance, go to every safari on the continent twice over. However, for an overall experience I can’t speak more highly of Etosha. Vast and open, popular and comfortable, while still feeling secluded and authentic. Do not miss.

Animals: 9/10

Experience: 10/10

Overall: 10/10

Wilderbeest in action running through Etosha

Lion Park, South Africa

Animal encounter 

Conveniently located in Johannesburg, the Lion Park is a fun tourist attraction, but far from any kind of national park or sanctuary. Here you can get close up views of animals including lions, cheetahs, hyenas and zebras. The park offers game drives, feeding tours and animal interaction and play at very affordable rates. While the animals are not living in the wild, last year the death of a tourist who left her car window down while driving in the park is a tragic reminder to always exercise caution around lions. The Lion Park, and other similar parks in Africa, receive a lot of criticism from animal activists. Basically, to meet the demands of lion tourism, many adult lions are sifted into the canned hunting industry after they have reached their cuteness expiry date. You can read or watch the work of Blood Lions in uncovering the nasty secrets of lion tourism, but it will put you off places like this. I don't know of this parks involment in feeding canned hunting, and had no luck getting information from them. I did have a great day in the park and got some cool pictures, but I rate this place the lowest because of the potentially sketchy animal practices.

Animals: 5/10

Experience: 6/10

Overall: 4/10

Cubs are tame enough to play with in the Lion Park

Otjitotongwe Cheetah Guest Farm, Namibia

Animal encounter

Unless you’re driving really early or late at night on a safari, you’re unlikely to see more than a rare sleepy cheetah in the shade. There were no shortage of cool cheetah sightings in Otjitotongwe Farm, but it’s not exactly seeing animals in their natural element. The farm offers daily interactions with three cheetahs tamed by the friendly family owners. Like the Lion Park, Otjitotongwe is a prime place for getting close to big cats, as well as getting that post-card worthy animal photo. It was less commercial than the lion park and the family are very passionate about caring for the cats, but it still receives some criticism for its practices. After playing with cheetahs, visitors are driven through the wild section of the park and watch the un-tame cheetahs leap for fresh meat thrown from the car. It’s exciting to watch them so close and this is a prime time for perfect photos. The farm also offers a big outdoor swimming pool which you will be very grateful for after enduring a long day in Namibia’s relentless heat. I wouldn’t miss this place if you’re a big-cat enthusiast like I am, but I certainly wouldn’t recommend it more than going to an actual national park and searching for a wild cheetahs.

Animals: 6/10

Experience: 7/10

Overall: 7/10

 

Up close and personal with Cheetahs

Based in Johannesburg, I spent 5 months living, studying and exploring Southern Africa. Most of my animal experiences were through overlanding with acacia, with some solo and group travel on the side.

I've written a lot about my favourite places in Africa. You can check out my other posts on your right or follow my past and upcoming Asian adventure on my other blog ditchedinasia.

By the Beach in Mozambique

I can’t quite put my finger on Mozambique. I tried to write about it after my first trip back in September but came up blank. Maybe that’s what made Mozambique the first country I've ever returned to. 

I don’t know whether it’s lying on quiet and pristine turquoise beaches, watching bright red sun sets through palm trees or driving through small roadside towns painted with pastel colours. Mozambique has this captivating charm I can’t effectively describe with words or photos. I could never sum up my time there in a single post, but here's my best effort.

The colours of a Mozambican sunset

I'd never known Africa for its beaches. Turns out tourism in Africa is so much more than just safaris and national parks. Beach life is largely what Mozambique is regarded for, and I can see why. Clean beaches. Good waves. Happening parties. Adventurous activities. What more could you want for a beach haven?
I think what makes Mozambique so special compared to other beautiful beach destinations is that you don't have to share the coast with mountains of others. For a tourist hotspot, it's so chilled you forget you're just a visitor.

Surf life in Mozambique

Mozambique certainly has a lure beyond the coast. I spent a few days in the capital city Maputo and as far as cities go, it's a pretty cool place to visit. I'll always remember travelling solo in Maputo, finding my way to an outdoor bar and dancing to a local rock band with a mix of happy people from all walks of life.
From the reds, pinks and greens of shop fronts, to the rainbow coloured sarongs worn almost everywhere; Mozambique is full of colour. It has the laid back pace of easy-going Africa coupled with the charm of the beach and the energy of a chilled night in your favourite bar. Palm trees are the most defining feature of the landscape and small cosy houses and shops scattered through sand paths and roads create the relaxed nature of the towns.

Housing in an island village outside Tofo

The bulk of time my in Mozambique was spent beachside in the tiny town Praia de Tofo (Tofo) just outside the small city Inhambane. Big on diving, parties and hanging by the beach, it’s a perfect place to relax. Despite it's small size, there’s a lot to do in Tofo like ocean safaris, market shopping and island tours. Quad biking around the town and up to nearby Barra was the best way to explore.
Mozambique is far from the friendliest country I’ve visited in Africa, but Tofo is much more open and accommodating to foreigners. Befriending the locals was without a doubt the easiest and cheapest way to get around and much more fun than the typical site seeing tour. I thought of venturing further north, but I couldn't simply just stay a few days here and move on.

Tofo by quadbike

Not only the first country I choose to return to, but the first place where English isn't the first language. Mozambique is a former Portuguese colony, leaving Portuguese as the offical language. There were definitely times my lack of ability to adapt to different languages was very evident. Most notably when my second visa was rejected at the border leaving me clueless and unable to negotiate entry. And how could I forget the time my flight home was grounded in Maputo and the airport staff were about as helpful as the other confused passengers.

Mozambique is far from easily accessible to non-African tourists. The visa process is the most difficult in Southern Africa. It's the only place which requires pre-arranged visas. It took me 4 visits to the embassy in Joburg to sort out a visa for my first trip. Some ill-informed advice from broader staff led me to have no visa for my second trip. I ended up borrowing money off a lovely portugese-speaking Canadian couple who managed to negotiated a new visa at a chaotic boarder. At this point I was just greatful I was let in and didn’t have to hitchhike my way back to Joburg.

I don’t know if I can blame this simply on the language barrier. It’s just Africa for you. Expect anything. The only thing you can guarantee is that official processes will move at a slow pace and no matter how well you plan you have to get ready to adapt.
It can be frustrating, but it’s also half the fun.

Travel complications are well worth it for sunsets like this

Mozambique is also the only place I have had a run-in with local police. Being a lone white female tourist in Africa is at times like walking around with a ‘free cash’ sign. Police are notorious for corruption and using tourists for easy money. This is definitely not specific to Mozambique, this was just where I got unlucky. I had been warned to always carry my passport, spare officially verified documents and carefully hidden cash. So when I was pulled over by a policeman cradeling his AK47, I naturally had no proof of identification and a large pile of non-concealed cash. If I hadn’t have been with a local I would be significantly out of pocket or worse. All just for quadbiking a few metres past a barely viable restricted area sign- something I would only expect a a brief warning for back home.
This wasn't the only time I felt targeted as a tourist. I travelled from Maputo to Tofo by road twice. The first time on a tour bus which was pulled over at every point to try and catch speeding or to check documents. The second time I caught a local bus which was largely ignored even though the vechical was in worse shape and completely over-filled.

You’re probably wondering why I loved travelling in Mozambique so much with all this going on.
I don’t mean to emphasis the negatives. I could just write about all the awesome things I did like sunbaking by crystal blue beaches, dancing all night at beachside bars and snorkelling with humpback whales. But there’s always more than meets the eye.
There’s so much Mozambique has to offer and I had the absolute time of my life there, but I find the country frustratingly out of reach. If the visa process was eased up and police corruption toned down, Mozambique would be far less intimidating.

Despite the visa dramas and intimidating environment for foreigners, I'd go back in a heartbeat. Whether it’s the beaches, sunsets, quirky towns or crazy adventures, Mozambique is an addictive country to visit. Sometimes though, travel is more about experience rather than location. My time in Mozambique wasn't about the brightest sunset or cleanest beach. It was the times I had with the amazing people by my side. I'll hold this place close to my heart.

Vast clear and calm water to explore in the islands surrounding Tofo and Barra

I travelled in Southern Mozambique twice in October and November, visiting Maputo, Bilene, Inhambane, Tofo and Barra. My first trip was through Rush Adventures. Second time around I travelled solo with Intercape and Faitma's bus staying at Fatima's Maputo. In Tofo I stayed at Surf Tree House Cottage as a couple.



 
I've written 4 other posts during my travels in Southern Africa about Cape Town, Lesotho, Drakensburg and load Shedding. 
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Back home in Australia I post uni assignments and write sporadically @ ditchedinmelbourne.